Kottayam, Kerala

The Arabian Sea

I have had an amazing four days in Kottayam, Kerala where I stayed with Father George and Father Thomas at the Thanmaya Media Center. I feel truly fortunate to have connected with Father George Sebastian, as he and Father Thomas truly looked after me and gave me a glimpse into the local culture and of the beautiful places that can be found in Kerala. Both priests are usually very busy with workshops, seminars, and retreats and I was lucky to catch them during a few days they had free.

The Thanmaya Media Center (with Father George Sebastian)

So a bit about Kerala.... Kottayam and the rest of Kerala have strong Christian roots dating back to around the year 1000 and there is a large Christian community in Kerala, seemingly outnumbering the Hindu community. There are many beautiful and old churches, many resembling the Portuguese style of architecture, due to historic Portuguese settlements after discovery by Vasco de Gama. I was able to attend a small mass held every morning at the Thanmaya Center, which is frequented by a few school children, local women, and nuns from the convent next door. Everything in the mass is the same, expect that it is in a different language, Malayalam, the local language of Kerala. It was a unique opportunity to interact with the community.

The beautiful Portuguese style alter preserved from its construction in the year 1002

Later that day, Father George and his family ,along with Father Thomas, took me on a beautiful drive out to the Western Ghats, a beautiful green mountain range running north to south only an hour or two from the coast. It was beautiful!! The rains had made the hills a verdant green and the clouds hung low around the mountains making a beautiful mist. It reminded me of the movie, The Sound of Music,...."the hilllss are alive...with the sound of muusic......" if any of you are familiar with that one you'll know what I mean. We followed the narrow road that winds up through the mountains and at the top we reached the tea fields. Many women could be seen picking the green tea leaves out in the fields wearing tarps to shield them from the rain. We were able to walk through a small tea factory where we saw how the tea is made, and afterward we stopped at a local hillside tea shack and had tea and fresh hot corn cakes. It was so amazing...

Father George (left) and Father Thomas (right)

After heading back down into the valley we all went over to George's brother's house and had a wonderful home cooked Keralan meal. It was so nice to have such great company, and to be able to interact with a family. I really enjoyed it.

The following day Father Thomas took me to visit a local school for the mentally handicapped. When we arrived all of the children were having a tea break and seemed very happy to have visitors. It was an excellent school, the director told me of all of the amazing progress from students and they were all so happy and focused in their classes. It was a treat to be able to meet the wonderful teachers and children at the school. From there we stopped by a famous Hindu temple that usually does not accept non-Hindu visitors. However, the director allowed us to view the musical procession around the temple and gave us a sweet, spicy porridge to eat.

That evening we went to Father George' other brother's bakery and tried some sweets. We then went to his home and had yet another home cooked Keralan meal!! It was also amazing food, and I am getting much better at eating with my hands, as Indians do. You may not think much of it but its quite tricky when you are trying to eat rice and various sauces. Everyone tries to give me a spoon, but I tell them I'm fine eating with my hands- they always seem pleased. Also they warn me not to eat certain things because they will be to spicy for me. Little do they know, I am from Texas... I can handle it... and have loved everything so far.

The next day I had a relaxing morning, and went to visit the sisters at the convent next door, as they had invited me twice at morning mass. It was great to sit and talk with them, they prepared tea and cake... it was really nice. I have been offered so much food though, the past few days, I feel that I am eating every place I go- it's Indian hospitality. I am never really hungry, but don't want to miss the opportunity to try new things and don't want to be rude. I'll take a break when I get back to Delhi.

Dosas (a South Indian specialty)

That afternoon, Father George and two of his friends took me out to the backwaters of Kerala- the largest backwater system in the world. It was so cool- the culture, the houseboats, the homes on thin strips of land between bodies of water, the means of travel, clothing- everything! We took a small boat around the backwaters of a small coastal town near Kottayam and then went to the beach just on the other side of the town.

One of the many house boats

The beach was beautiful- even with the rain. Though the beach life is quite different here than in other places. Women do not really swim, if they do they are fully clothed and may just stand in the waves up to their knees. Similarly, though it seems a popular place for families and for couples too. You can see couples holding hands strolling along the beach- which is uncommon to see in India usually. Hugging, kissing, and holding hands between the opposite sex is extremely inappropriate behavior in public- but it seems romantic strolls on the beach are an exception.

I had such a wonderful time in Kerala but am excited to head back to Delhi to meet my Dad. Only a few more days and we will be heading toward the Himalayas!